Magnetek converter charger

Size: Easy to install. Four-Stage charging system dramatically increases battery life. The intelligent way to charge and maintain your battery.

Constantly monitors voltage status and automatically selects one of four charging modes. By simply sliding into the bottom of existing series models, RU converter sections provide whisper-quiet operation. Clean power free from spikes and surges. FCC-certified to minimize interference with TVs, radios, and emergency channels. Joined Aug 24, Posts 9.

It won't change from to 12 volt. The relay that is supposed to switch when the generator is on, won't convert anymore. The refrigerator won' t work at It works at 12 volt. But, the display on the REf. The 12 volt lights inside the trailer don't work either. Can I do this myself? John From Detroit Well-known member. Well, when it comes to converters there are some very good ones and some very bad ones.

Turns out that at the time it did not get better than the PD line. I'm afraid I can not give you brands. That makes swapping it out a chore rather than a plug in replacement. A Google search on Magnetek turned up a used one available, but the is an old technology system that is really hard on batteries.

John's suggestion of a Progressive Dynamics Iota is an equivalent unit is a good one, but you have to mount the new converter along side the existing one and internally rewire the Magnetek to bypass the charger part and use the new one instead.

Not terrible hard if you have any electrical experience, but a pain nonetheless. But I'm a bit mystified why you have no V and why the display on your fridge doesn't work even though you say you have 12v to it. And why you have 12v to the fridge but not anywhere else.

I think you have some other problems, either in addition to the converter or perhaps instead of it. You also mentioned a generator transfer switch I think that's what you meant and that is unrelated to the Magnetek as well. Perhaps we should explore your symptoms further before deciding the converter is the problem. Whodo Active member. You did answer one of my unasked questions. I guess, from what you said, I can run the 12 volt systems from my batteries, if I have the charger disconnected.

I have to monitor my charge time very closely as the charger will boil my batteries dry. I have a plug in volt meter, cigarrete lighter socket , and monitor my battery voltages daily. Thanks again, Jerry. Clay L Well-known member. A schematic and troubleshooting info is available HERE.

John From Detroit Well-known member. I do not recommend messing with a Magnatek I do recommend replacgin it.. Randy at Bestconverters. He has kits to eliminate it if it's integrated into a power distribution system so that you can use a Xantrex or Progressive Dynamics or Iota or WFCO conveter In short..

Some of those magnajunks can do it in a week. Yeah, that old Magnetek will boil a battery in no time once it is fully charged. If you have another battery charger, I'd use that instead. Leave the Magnetek's charge line disconnected from the battery and hook up a 10A automotive charger if you don't want to buy an upgrade to something newer. Gary, you were right on. When the 1 breaker is off I have no power to my 12 volt system. But, it also kills the power to my left side ac volt receptacles. Ther are two circuits attached to the out put side of this breaker.

I haven't checked it yet, but am assuming that the coverter charger and the LH recpt. Thanks John, I have read a lot of your previous posts about the better chargers. I think your observations are very astute. I agree that the Magnetek leaves a lot to be desired. My labor comes cheap as I am retired and always looking for something to do.

There is an article in the library that describes how to change out the converter charger with the better unit. The aricle didn't explain exactly what I needed to know. Again thanks to all who responded, I now have avery good understanding of my systems.

But I am skeptical about that being the source of the power draw you originally talked about, unless you have a substantial DC power load on the converter portion would have to be on the order of DC amps. Gary, I did as suggested. I took the lead off the 1 breaker and put it with the GFI feed breaker. This also kills the power to the converter charger now. Took a reading from the main power feed and now I read 17 amps total. A drop of 5 amps. I am happy with this. Too lazy right now. Last evening I had the charger on for about 3 hours and the battery read 14 volts.

Prior to the charge it was reading I think I can now manage my power requirements better. Also and added benifit is that I don't have all the heat associated with the converter charger. I can turn it on when temps are down. Sounds like a winner, Jerry. That GFI breaker is probably controlling your bathroom and exterior vac outlets, though, so those will be off too.

It was interesting to learn that the old Magnetec was sucking up 5A even when it was supposedly idle. Thanks for bringing to our attention - we learn something every day! I have a battery charger for a battery operated drill that was not working,, I replaced the fuse embedded in the transformer and it prmptly blew the fuse..

I finally did a test and it was drawing 4 amps.. Found the shorted diode, replaced it and low and behold.. Works great now. You must log in or register to reply here. Latest posts. Latest: johnhicks 1 minute ago.

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