The same grit can be used to sand down the top layer of wood if you are refinishing stain, with your goal being to sand down until you can see the color of the natural wood. Afterwards you can use a plus grit to smooth down the wood in preparation for painting or staining. Clean the windowsill with a tack cloth after sanding. Detail work can be done with a small paintbrush into the nooks and crannies of the windowsill where it meets the window trim.
A paint brush is the best tool for applying paint in such a small area, but you can also use the brush to apply stain to the surface and then wipe up the excess with an old rag and work it into the wood evenly across the surface.
You can also use a sponge to apply the stain or even dip the old rag into stain and then apply it directly to the surface of the wood. Once everything dries you can remove the tape and get back to normal use. Tim Anderson has been freelance writing since He spent more than 15 years as a third-generation tile and stone contractor before transitioning into freelance writing.
By Tim Anderson. To learn more or opt-out, read our Cookie Policy. A quick guide to fixing exterior window trim without replacing the window. Q: One of our windowsills appears to be rotting. Can it be replaced without buying a new window? David Raymond, Raymond Design Builders, replies: Sticking out into the weather year after year, wood windowsills take quite a beating. They can last for decades if you just keep them clean and protect them with a coat of paint.
But when water gets trapped in or against them, as happens with improperly flashed windows, rot can take hold. A simple epoxy repair will do the trick if the rot is confined to a small area, but if more than 10 percent of the sill is rotten, the old sill should be cut off and replaced. For this project, I used a solid piece of Kleer cellular PVC sill that matches the profile and thickness of the other sills on the house. It costs less than a piece of clear, milled red cedar and is paintable, but no matter how many times it gets wet, it can't rot.
The casing comes off to clear the way for removing the old sill. If the casings are rotting, as here, replace them, too. Slice through the caulk bead between the siding and the casing, then carefully pry off each piece.
Save the trim to use as templates for the new ones. Once you put that finish coat of paint on, no one will ever know there was a repair. The way to prevent this is to avoid skim coating window sills or other wood. It was never designed for this kind of work and will fail rather spectacularly.
I love old houses, working with my hands, and teaching others the excitment of doing it yourself! Everything is teachable if you only give it the chance. Thanks for the reminder that working with completely dry wood will a window repair job a lot easier. If I purchase the home, I plan on stripping both the aluminum and vinyl siding. I know I need to be prepared for possible repairs to the wood siding, and I fully expect that the original wood window sills will have been cut off at the front to make flat for the siding.
Any good resources for restoring the sills. Superior advice and explanation. Nothing left to guessing. Great product recommendation. Looking forward to outstanding results. Off I go in search of product. How can I repair my outdoor cement cracked window ledge? It has also caused the area under the interior window cell to crack?? Thank you. Neutralizes and cleans up with water or denatured alcohol. Has anyone had more experience with this product? The last stripper I used was Jasco.
Thank you, Scott. Hi, I am trying to figure out what the measurement of the flashing underneath the cill of a dormer window on pitched victorian roof should be. Epoxies are fussy about ratios. Mark the outside with a fine point permanent marker. Another quarter cup, another mark.
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